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I’ve tried a bunch of different modeling software but the one I like most is AutoDesk’s 123D Design, which is free and powerful enough for most basic tasks. Regardless of object you’re attempting to create, the basic steps are pretty much the same: select your software, build your shapes, and print.

I’ve evolved the design (using chamfered edges) and printing method (more plastic in-fill) over time, but this post is more about the design of the part itself.

#123d design hotkeys cracked#

The results speak for themselves, but not without caveat: unfortunately this part isn’t quite as strong as the original and has cracked a few times. Specifically, a neighbor recently had a part break on his snow-blower and asked if I could print a replacement part. Thingiverse is a site that allows anyone to download ready-made 3D models for printing (I’ve put some of my own up there and written about them here), but today we’re going to talk about the steps to actually design your own parts.

While it still has a long way to go before we’re all printing our own cell phones at home, designing and printing plastic 3D parts is well within reach. 3D printing technology continues to advance, as seen in this excellent infographic on. You can also build your own by projecting the sketch profile of the connector geometry.The MakerBot 3D Printer is a pretty cool piece of technology that we’ve covered before. Use the custom support structures found in the 123D design file or import the stemSupport.stl file. You’ll want to add custom supports for the keycap stem when using FDM printers. Fans on most printers should have enough cooling power to bridge the top wall without any problems. Once that’s looking good we’ll export the STL and upload it to the printer.įor FDM printers, you’ll want to layout the keycaps with the top of the key facing upward. A few more on the side of the connector should be enough for it to print properly. Now when we create supports they come out clean. This will avoid generating any weird geometry when creating supports. So we lowered the “ Tip Height” option down to around 1.4mm – 0.70mm.

The default settings for support structures tend to generate non-manifold geometry on very small parts. Laying it flat on the side that has a decent amount of surface area, this will be the layer that sticks to the bed. To orient the part and add support structures we’re using MeshMixer. Use the stem geometry found in our 123D design file or import the stemKey.stl file into your CAD program. Measure the placement of where the internal support connects to the switch. Take note of the angle, each row of keys is different. To create the curvature, we subtracted an oblong cylinder from the top surface, which is an easy way to create a slight contour. We then applied a small fillet of 1.25mm to the edges.Ī shell with a wall thickness of 1.25mm matches up with the original keycap. In CAD software, we drew up simple sketches and lofted between them to create the basic shape. We’ll start by taking measurements of the top and bottom of keycaps using calipers. The size of each keycap is different so it’s important to take note of all the angles and curvatures. You’ll need a couple of hand tools and accessories to assist you in the build. Be sure to check out the featured products on the right sidebar.

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Below is a full list of parts needed to build this project.